Hans Tammemägi. Exploring the Hill: A Guide to Canada’s Parliament Past and Present. Fitzhenry & Whiteside, Markham, 2002. 146 pages. ISBN 1- 55041-641-3

These days the words Ottawa and Parliament Hill are rarely mentioned with the respect they deserve. Far too often the expressions are tinged with disdain and scorn, disappointment with the manner by which politicians of all stripes, not just the entrenched and arrogant ruling Liberals have reduced the once hallow grounds of national government to being a sandbox, where petty squabbles and churlish, childish arguments rule the day.

The discovery of this wonderful guidebook and pictorial history of Canada’s storied Parliament Hill by award-winning author Hans Tammemägi comes as a refreshing tonic during the dog days of summer, brushing away, even if temporarily the squalid reality of political life in a country that was once expected to become a world leader.

The Hill, though, remains a magical place, where it is still possible to glimpse the heart and soul of a nation, sense the dreams of the Fathers of Confederation, feel a history that is one of dignity, rather than puerile confrontation aimed to catch a spot on the evening’s televised newscasts.

Tammemägi writes with passion and, unlike the politicans, with an economy of words. This is an encomium marked by style and refinement. The author loves wandering around the eccentric yet elegant old sandstone buildings of the Hill, which represent some of the finest examples of Gothic architecture in the world.

Tammemägi’s attention to architecture is but the start. His fascination for the buildings and history is conveyed with respect for detail - no matter how small. This is most noticeable in the excellent photographs taken, for the most part, by the author.

The guide explains how the buildings came to be built, providing insight into original and present planning. No less care is taken with explaining what happens inside - the arcane and often incomprehensible ways that parliament functions and the ways that laws are created.

People are also placed in the spotlight - Tammemägi introduces the reader to some of delightful characters who have inhabited the Hill. For the occasional visitor to Ottawa the chapter that reveals what to look for on the grounds of the Hill - the buildings, statues, the cat sanctuary, the walking tours - is of considerable value.

Perhaps most pleasurable is the time spent following Tammemägi from the visible such as the Peace Tower to the less visible, such as through the hidden nooks and crannies, mysterious corridors and secret stairwells. Of course, no tour is complete without visiting some of the best-known chambers and foyers in the nation.

For those disappointed in the recent workings of Canada’s government this extremely well-written guide may return a respect for the place, if not the people. “Exploring the Hill” is, as advertised, a perfect armchair companion to Canada’s political heartland. Recommended for tourist and citizen alike.

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