CHAPTER XVIII. TALLINN: THE SEAT OF GOVERNMENT

I was longing to meet some of the old Baltic noblesse and hear their side of the Estonian story; and one morning, I found the opportunity. At breakfast in the Kuld Lõvi dining-room I noticed a handsome, well dressed, middle-aged lady, who was, at the same time, noticing me. I bowed in response; and I rose and went over to her table.

“Are you American?” I asked, eagerly.

“No, I am not; but I speak English. Can I be of any service to you?”

“Thank you, no. Only it is pleasant to hear one’s own language in a foreign land.”

“Won’t you sit down and have your coffee with me?” “I thank you.” I motioned to the waiter.

And so I had my first interview with one of the most famous and wealthy of the Baltic Baronesses. When she found I was seriously interested in the country and planned to write about it, she was eager to talk to me, for she was quite sure I would never hear the position of the Baltic noblesse from any of the people I was meeting.

“You an have no idea how beautiful the country was when we controlled it,” she said. “Our estates were kept like great parks, all in perfect order. Our city homes, up here on the Domburg, close to the wall, were centers of high culture, filled with beautiful things collected from all the countries of the world.

“And we were really kind to our workers. Even now many of my husband’s people bring their troubles to him. Although we live in Germany now, we spend every summer on our island, which is all that we have left from our many estates. The peasants tell us, ‘Ah, we wish the old days were here! We know you would help us’ and so we would. Even now we help them, as much as we are able.

“You must understand that we are not against this people. We are their friends. We have always been. We gave them all the culture they have. Dorpat - you have seen Dorpat? It was our university - Ach, yes! Gustavus Adolphus founded it -true - but we developed it. We used to call it the Baltic Heidelberg. And this country was pagan when we came. We brought Christianity. No one must forget that - we brought Christianity.”

She was turning a diamond ring on her shapely hand, looking wistfully into the distance.

“I suppose you know what a point these people make about the Estonian language. they have changed even the names of places. Dorpat is Tartu, now. But I must explain to you that it is a very primitive language, not suited to the uses of high culture. There are no words in it to convey philosophical ideas, or with which to make poetry or literature. At the same time that it is primitive, it is also difficult. I who speak English, as you see, and of course German, and Russian, as well as French, and Italian, have never been able to master Estonian. And the people who have kept on speaking it so obstinately are obstinate about other things, too. This primitive language, perhaps, expresses them, for as people they are primitive, though some of their leaders are intelligent. But the masses of the people are dull, obstinate, and dirty. My son often goes about the country in summer, hunting and fishing, and he must sometimes put up at a farm-house. He tells me there are actually bugs in the walls - you understand what I mean? But vermin! Yes!” “That can hardly be helped in such old houses, can it?” I murmured.

(To be continued)

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